Pack 130

The Pinewood Derby is an annual event  and it is the most popular event for many scouts and is probably the best known scouting event among non-scouts.
Since 1953, millions of young people have built Pinewood Derby cars. The races remain very popular and are a highlight of each year in many Cub Scout packs. Links on tips and design ideas can be in the Pinewood Derby Links section on the right hand side of this page.

Cubmaster Don Murphy organized the first Pinewood Derby, which was raced on May 15, 1953 in Manhattan Beach, California, by Pack 280C. Murphy’s son was too young to participate in the popular Soap Box Derby races, so he came up with the idea of racing miniature wood cars. The cars had the same gravity-powered concept as the full-size Soap Box Derby cars, but were much smaller and easier to build.

In the 1980s, the design of the block was changed from including a cutout consistent with a 1940′s style front-engined Indy 500 car to a solid block, and the tires were changed from narrow, hard plastic to wider "slicks". Blocks can be whittled with a hand knife, but this is dangerous for young boys. It is usually better for a trained adult to use a band saw or Dremel carving tool for major shaping. Decals can be bought at scout shops. The original style is based on open wheel cars, however, fender or body kits are available, or wheels can simply be placed outboard of the body.

The scout is given a block of wood made of pine with two notches for wheels, four plastic wheels and four nails. The finished car must use all nine pieces, must not exceed a certain weight , must not exceed a certain length and must fit on the track used by that particular scout pack. The parent, usually the father, but occasionally the mother or grandparent often spends substantial time "helping" the child design, carve, paint, add weights, and tune the final car. Judging often goes to the best looking car, but sometimes is awarded to a car that looks like it was assembled by an elementary school child.

Other than the previous basic design rules, the scout is able to carve and decorate the car as he chooses. Many scouts also add weights to the final design to bring the car to the maximum allowable weight. Cars typically vary from unfinished blocks to whimsical objects, to accurate replicas of actual cars. The fastest cars tend to resemble low doorstops, with weight at the rear. Graphite is usually the only lubricant allowed, while it often helps to polish the provided nails.

The track usually has six lanes and slopes down to the ground as the cars are powered by gravity. Tracks may be owned by the pack, or rented. The race is run in heats, giving every car the chance to run on each lane.

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING CAREFULLY BEFORE BUILDING YOUR PINEWOOD DERBY CAR.
Any car found not to be within ANY of the following specifications or rules can and will be disqualified at ANY time during the race.

Car specification details

Any car found not to be within ANY of the following specifications or rules can and will be disqualified at ANY time during the race.

Cars are to be built only from the Official BSA Pinewood Derby kit, using the body, wheels, and axles provided in the kits. Detailing such as Steering Wheel, Driver, Decals, Painting, Interior Details are permissible as long as these details do not exceed the maximum length, width and weight specifications.

All four wheels and axles MUST be used on the car (three, two or one wheeled cars will not be entered into the race).

Cars are to be built new for this year’s derby. Cars raced in previous year events are not eligible to be raced.

Car dimensions and weight shall not exceed the following: (the car will be placed in a box of the following dimensions prior to the race to determine if the car is within limits. If a car does not meet the dimension limits, the car MUST be adjusted by the owner to meet these limits before being entered into the race)

Car width shall not exceed 2 ¾ inches (69 mm)

Car length shall not exceed 7 inches (177 mm)

Car weight shall not exceed 5 ounces (143 grams)

Bottom clearance between car and track 3/8 inches (10 mm)

The lateral distance between the wheels must be at least 1 ¾ inches (44 mm). There is no restriction on the wheel base length up to the 7 inch (177 mm) total length of the car.

The car shall not ride on any type of spring or suspension system.

The car must be free-wheeling, with no starting or launch devices.

No loose materials of any kind are allowed on or inside the car. Any car losing an accessory such as a decorative item will be allowed to continue the race without the item attached. Any car losing a wheel will be allowed to be repaired, but then must be re-inspected.

Wheel bearings, washers, covers, and bushings are strictly prohibited.

Wheels cannot be wafered, beveled, ridged, crowned, drilled, or altered in any way. Burrs that are present in the axle hole or on the outside may be removed.

One piece axles are prohibited.

Axles may be lubricated with powdered graphite only. This should be applied before final inspection and cars cannot be lubricated again during the races.

After final inspection and registration of each car, cars will be moved to a staging area off limits to all participants. Cars will be kept in this staging area between races.

Decisions by Derby Officials on race day are final and cannot be appealed.

ADULT TIPS

• The boy and adult should make the car together as a project. It is not the intent that the parent show the Scout the garage door then walk away; nor is it the intent that the boy play video games while the adult cuts and sands.Parents should shape with the power tools and then direct the rest of the action while showing the boy each step in building the car.
• Have fun! After all, this is what it is all about.
• Know and follow the rules. Being disqualified can be embarrassing.

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

Check the grooves to ensure that each is at a perfect 90-degree angle to the car body. A car with untrue axles tends to steer to one side or the other, causing it to rub up against the side of the lane strip, slowing it down. You can check the groove angles by using a square, a protractor, or even a piece of paper.

Lay square on block to check for squareness and alignment of slot.

Use two hacksaw blades side by side to redress the slots. Use the edge of the square as a guide.
NOTE:If the car design you chose has a narrow body, make sure the area where the axles are inserted into the body remains 1-3/4" wide, or wheels will not fit over the guide strips of the track.

PAINTING AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY

Apply several coats of sanding sealer; then sand entire car with a fine-grade sandpaper. Give model at least two coats of fast drying paint, in your choice of color. When paint is completely dry sand with a fine sandpaper, apply a final coat of paint and allow to dry thoroughly. TO FINISH, rub entire car with a rubbing compound. Details such as windshield, driver, racing numbers, etc., should be added now. For a super finish apply a coat of auto wax and rub to a high gloss. Pre-lubricate axles and wheels using, dry powdered lubricant. Do not use regular oil or silicone spray, since it may soften the plastic. Slide wheels over axles, then gently tap them into the car body grooves with a 1/4" dowel or similar object to within 1/32" of car body. (See Figure 4). Make sure wheels turn freely.

Set up details for Pinewood Derby

The track is stored at la Chat. Take photo’s or draw out the table layout so that everything can get put back in the same place. The track is numbered and has to be set up in order. Make sure you bring a multi plug and something to act as a bumper at the bottom of the run to stop the cars. Trays are needed for the cars.